The finest venison needs nothing more than a sharp knife, good seasoning and confidence. Roe deer loin, finely diced, dressed with capers, shallot, Dijon mustard and a few drops of walnut oil. Serve on toasted rye. A dish that respects the animal from field to plate.
The finest venison needs nothing more than a sharp knife, good seasoning and confidence. This recipe for roe deer tartare is one I return to every season — it is the dish I make on the evening of a successful stalk, when the loin is still fresh and cold from the larder.
The meat
Use only the loin — the backstrap — from a roe deer taken cleanly and handled correctly. The meat must be fresh, properly bled, and hung for a minimum of 4 days at 1–3°C. A well-handled roe loin will be deep ruby-red, with no off smell whatsoever.
Trim all silverskin and fat. Cut the loin into 5mm slices, then into fine dice. The knife must be very sharp. This is not a job for a blunt blade.
Dressing (per 200g meat)
- 1 shallot, very finely diced - 1 tbsp capers, roughly chopped - 1 tsp Dijon mustard - 1 egg yolk - 1 tbsp walnut oil - Few drops Worcestershire sauce - Salt, white pepper - Optional: grated fresh horseradish
Mix the dressing ingredients first, then fold gently through the diced venison. The dressing should coat but not overpower. You want to taste the deer first, the seasoning second.
To serve
Press into a ring mould on a cold plate. Remove the mould. Finish with a few cornichons, a quenelle of crème fraîche if you like, and a small pile of toasted rye soldiers alongside.
Serve immediately. This dish waits for no one.
A note on sourcing
If you do not have your own roe deer, buy from a licensed game dealer. Ask for confirmation of the hung time and the chill chain. Do not attempt this dish with supermarket venison of unknown provenance. The whole point of tartare is the quality of the raw ingredient — and that quality begins in the field.
Sophie Laurent
Chef & Food Writer, Lyon, France